White Wines

• Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc, in recent years, has become the Rodney Dangerfield of California varietal wines: it's viewed as being somehow common, slightly uncouth and just can't get no respect. It is still one of the most widely grown grapes in California, but has largely disappeared from the most famous growing regions (such as Napa and Sonoma) because vineyard owners can get higher prices for Chardonnay and other grapes. Chenin Blanc is perhaps the Beaujolais of white grapes-the best examples (such as French Vouvray) have a beguiling fresh fruit character with hints of pears, peaches and fresh grapes that is utterly charming. Chenin Blanc can be made in a full range of styles from dry and crisp to semi-sweet and fruity to full blown late-harvest dessert wines (such as Coteaux du Layon and Quarts du Chaume from the Loire) which can rival Sauternes in honeyed complexity of flavors and ageability. You can detect honey, straw and even exotic scents like oil of Bergamot (think Earl Grey tea) in the best examples. Chenin Blanc can also make charming sparkling wines, especially from Anjou and California. Chenin Blancs will even stand up to modest oak ageing. It is still a workhorse grape in California, and is frequently blended into Chardonnays and other wines to add fruit and acidity.

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